It’s a gluten-free version made with cauliflower, and while it was neither chewy nor flaky nor magically toasty like a full-bodied pizza crust, it delivered at least the phantom sensation of those qualities to people with gluten sensitivities. There’s a fourth option for crust at Trilogy, one that few shops even offer, much less do well. Trilogy lets you pick any crust for any of its pies, but the Pesto Chicken seemed best suited for the California treatment, with chicken, mozzarella, garlic and tomatoes finished with twangy herb pesto ($14 for a small pie). But that’s how it is, and Trilogy plays along with a California-style whole-wheat crust that takes half the fun out of pizza by making it more like just sauce and cheese on bread. If I were California, I’d get tired of my food being defined by avocados and sprouts and whole-wheat everything. But the pools of sliced mozzarella suggested something more, bringing an air of craft to glossy pepperoni and sharp tomato sauce. Other pizzas: With a crust like an air-puffed saltine, the Old World Classic Pepperoni ($23 for a large pie) behaved like a crackly, foldable New York street slice. He’s the guy who started Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro in 2004 just a mile and a half down the road. When John Gladders opened Trilogy Burger Bistro on Stone Oak Parkway in February, he already knew something about America’s favorite foods. The menu at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less The menu at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 9 of9 Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 8 of9 Pizza options at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro include Chicago-style deep-dish pizza, including the Capone, with mozzarella, Italian sausage, pepperoni, black olives, mushrooms and red onions. Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 7 of9 Pizza options include Pesto Chicken with mozzarella, pesto, chicken, garlic, tomatoes and red onions on a California-style wheat crust at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro. Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 6 of9 The dining room is open with limited capacity, and the staff wear protective masks at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro. Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 5 of9 Pizza options at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro include a margherita pizza with marinara, olive oil, garlic, fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes and basil on a gluten-free cauliflower crust. Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 4 of9 Pizza options at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro include, clockwise from left, the Old World Classic Pepperoni on a New York-style thin crust, Pesto Chicken on a California-style wheat crust and a margherita pizza on a gluten-free cauliflower crust. Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 3 of9 Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro opened in 2004 on Stone Oak Parkway. Mike Sutter /Staff Show More Show Less 2 of9 He lives with and cooks for his wife and son in San Antonio.Pizza options at Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro include Chicago-style deep-dish pizza, including the Capone, with mozzarella, Italian sausage, pepperoni, black olives, mushrooms and red onions. He's a Houston native with philosophy degree from Harvard and a master's from the Columbia Graduate School of Journalism. He began his newspaper career in Bay City, Texas, before going to the Corpus Christi Caller-Times, graduate school in New York, a yearlong internship at the Chicago Tribune and different positions at the Milwaukee Journal and Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. His other assignments for the paper included education and news obituaries. Before joining the Taste team, he wrote the ""Around the Town"" column for the Express-News form 2002-2008. He joined the Express-News in 1999 after closing his restaurant. He is a frequent contributor to and has written about food, restaurants and reviewing for Epicurious and Romenesko. His culinary explorations began with rolling flour tortillas as a child and included a yearlong stint as chef and owner of a restaurant in Milwaukee. Edmund Tijerina writes about food and reviews restaurants for the San Antonio Express-News.
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